The often cloistered, impenetrable surf world could use a lot more figures like Maurice Cole. Doesn’t take much poking to get Cole to hold forth with hours of surf stories, many told from a vulnerable and deeply personal place. He’s a man quick to open up to a stranger, commiserate with what you’re dealing with, and share a knowing wink. A refreshing blast of honesty in a surf environment often too blasé to offer anything of substance. In this moving short, we learn about Cole’s run-ins with the law, with his health issues both physically and mentally, and what surfing has meant to him through it all. In it, we find a surf legend no different from us plebes. Just one with way better stories.

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